Archive | October, 2010

Bodegas Mustiguillo Finca Terrerazo 2005

29 Oct

From 60-year-old Valencia vines, this 90% Bobal blend grows almost 2800 feet above sea level. Bobal mostly is used for bulk wines in Spain, but this vineyard is known for making smooth reds from it.  Smoky, tobacco-ey, chewy and tannic, I really ought to steal one of the Gin Savant’s better cigars to enjoy this with.

Verdict: Legs as good as Susan Anton’s in 1979.

BRIX on Broad, $50.


Saint Jean du Barroux L’Oligocene 2004

22 Oct

From the Cotes du Ventoux, this organic mostly-Grenache blend (with a little Syrah, Carignan and Cinsault) springs from Cenozoic-era soils (37 to 24 million years ago) which means they’re crap: stony and poor, and the vines themselves are at least 25. The good news is that the harder the grapes are to grow, the better wine they make.

Gorgeous herbs de Provence aroma–my favorite part of the wine, along with sticky, smoky deliciousness. Definitely a wine for grownups.

Verdict: like a slinky, sexy Bryan Ferry song, all bespoke suit and unbuttoned white oxford (before he fell victim to Dylan-idoltry and was still cool).Or maybe haggard like Jagger these days, but the moves are still sending the pretenders to school.

BRIX on Broad, $30

Flea market find

15 Oct

SOWA Market, $25

Est! Est!! Est!!! di Montefiascone 2008

1 Oct

Legend has it that a pope in the 1100s or thereabouts –back when popes weren’t especially religious or pious or celibate–sent a lackey on ahead to locate the best wine in Italy. Said lackey, upon finding the best, would mark the door of the establishment with “est” (it’s here?). One certain purveyor was so good, the lackey was moved to paroxysms of chalking the door.Ecco Est.

Est certainly inexpensive. Est very drinkable for 12.5% abv. Est had a pleasant-enough oily texture, tasting of grapefruit, lemon, wet wool and a tenacious weight on the tongue that slid into an acorn-like finish.

Est the best? Nest.

Verdict: My notes say “like a commuter on a train, drink it and don’t think twice.” No, I wasn’t drunk. That was my rather pretentious way of saying that, like a commuter who travels the same route every day and looks through the same things every day going elsewhere, that’s the experience of this wine.

Bin Ends, $9